WMD: The food in Bavaria is very good: fresh ingredients, robust presentation, and good solid flavours along comfort food lines. It tilts heavily toward meat and starch, (Bavaria would be a difficult place to be a vegetarian -- kind of like Alberta) but I was pleasantly surprised to see vegetables on my plate, and I don't think I had a bad meal the whole trip. Breakfast buffets in the hotels include scrambled eggs, breads and rolls, local jams, fresh squeezed juice, various cereals, a wide variety of fresh whole and cut food and yogurt. Lunch and dinners seemed almost interchangeable. Pork is common, chicken not as much, but you also see beef and venison. Fresh fish is also available from local lakes. And of course, there are sausages. A Bavarian favourite is the disgustingly albino-looking white sausage, which by tradition must be eaten before noon. Desserts are common and include dumplings filled with fruit fillings, pancake-like things, custards and cake.
Most of the towns we visited had sizeable outdoor foor and farmers' markets, which are popularly attended. A local delicacy seen only in May and June is white asparagus, and we saw stacks of it for sale in local stalls. It is often served steamed on a plate, but it also makes tasty soup. Another Bavarian specialty, coming from Swabian cuisine, is spaetzle, an egg noodle that originated as peasant food and has now gone upscale. My little tour group was treated to a demonstration on how to make spaetzle by the chef of the Bauerntanz restaurant in Augsburg. It wasn't half bad, served with sauer kraut (I avoided that), mixed with spinach or made plain and topped with mushroom sauce.
The beer in Bavaria is also the best I've ever had, and I wish I could stop saying that. Locals claim it's the pure quality of the water, and the German purity laws of 1516 also might have a hand. The weise wheat beer is especially good: smooth, sweet but not cloying, filling, with a golden hue. Sadly, while it's cheap in Germany, it's $2.75 a bottle at my local liquor store. Little known World Cup fact: the beer sold in the Munich stadium during World Cup games is, thanks to FIFA sponsorship deals, a major U.S. beer brand (I can't remember which one). That's globalization: one of the cities with the best beer in the world serving some of the worst beer in the world at an international sporting event.
Meals are important moments for Bavarians, and what impressed me was the formality of the service and the social encounters. Service in a restaurant, even if it is brusque, is all "dankes" and "bittes" and, as far as I could tell, none of the "Hello my name is Hans and I'll be your server today." (Waiting tables in Germany, I was told, is a profession, so it's common to see people in their 50s or older serving you your food. Tips are also included in the price of the food, which seemed comparable to Vancouver prices.) Even between friends, acquaintances or strangers sitting down at a common meal table, formality is apparent. The common wish before eating is "Guten appetit," which is routintely followed by "Danke, gleiche falls" or "Thanks, to you likewise." I tried out that phrase on the plane coming home, when an elderly German man was seated next to me. As our meal was served, I said "Guten appetit." Instantly he replied with "Danke, gleiche falls." It made me feel almost German.
WMD2: Photos explained:
Top: White sausage, as ordered by our tour guide at a restaurant in a restaurant off the Stadmarkt.
Second from top: Spaetzle, served at the Bauerntanz restaurant in Augsburg. From left to right are noodles served with sauer kraut and topped with bacon; noodles made with spinach; and noodles served with fried onion.
Third from top: Weise beer, already partly enjoyed during lunch at a restaurant in Prien on the shore of Lake Chiemsee.
Bottom: a corner stall in the Stadmarkt in Augsburg. The woman in the blue and red dress is a city tour guide dressed up (and acting as) the cousin of Mozart, with whom he had a brief fling and to whom he kept up a naughty correspondence. Yes, she was really his cousin. It was the 18th century.
Recent Comments